October, and the ramp up to Day of the Dead (Día de Muertos) might be our favorite time of year in Mexico City.
You find the flowers of the season—vibrant orange marigolds—everywhere, from the thousands of blossoms on Paseo de la Reforma to little pots in storefronts and windows.
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Festive skeletons stand in entryways and brightly colored papel picado (punched paper) flags hang above the sidewalks.
Ofrendas honor those who have passed away with flowers, photos, and items they loved. Some are huge, like the big display in the Zocalo, and others are intimate, honoring a parent, grandparent, or regular customers in a bar or restaurant.
Close to the end of the month, you’ll see kids trick or treating, but Día de Muertos isn’t Mexican Halloween. It’s a tradition that celebrates the lives of loved ones with everything from quiet remembrances to parades that draw millions.
If you’re in town for Day of the Dead, it can be overwhelming. Our guide to navigating the events and the city can help.
🎉The big parades on Paseo de la Reforma
Gran Desfile de Día de Muertos (Saturday, October 31, 2 pm): This is the massive parade inspired by the opening scene of the James Bond movie Spectre. It runs from the Glorieta de la Diana Cazadora to the Zócalo. You’ll see huge floats, acrobats, giant puppets, indigenous dancers, and tributes to Mexican cultural icons.
Mega Procesión de las Catrinas (Sunday, October 25, 6 pm): This parade celebrates José Guadalupe Posada’s elegant skeletons, a key symbol of the season. Participants march from the Ángel de la Independencia to the Zócalo dressed in costumes ranging from traditional Oaxacan dresses to steampunk skeletons. Face painters set up tents along Reforma if you want to get festive yourself.
Paseo Nocturno Muévete en Bici (Saturday, October 24, 7 pm – 11 pm): Cars are off limits and cyclists, rollerbladers, and walkers take over for 19 kilometers, from the Fuente de Petróleos through Reforma into the Centro Histórico. You can rent an Ecobici city bike to join in on the fun.
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🎨Altars, art, and festivals
Ofrenda Monumental del Zócalo (October 29 – November 2): Head to the Zócalo to see this year’s centerpiece, a giant Catrina surrounded by beds of marigolds. Visit at night if you also want to see the facades of the Zócalo lit up with Día de Muertos symbols. (The lights are on display until November 4.)
Megaofrenda UNAM (October 31 – November 2, 11 am – 9 pm): UNAM’s professors, students, and artists display this year recognizes the school’s 475th anniversary with altars centered on sustainable design as well as poetry and theatre.
Monumental Alebrijes Exhibition (October 17 – November 8): More than 200 fantastical papier-mâché creatures line the sidewalks of Paseo de la Reforma between the Ángel de la Independencia and Glorieta de la Diana Cazadora.
Mexicráneos on Reforma: (October 17 – November 16): Massive fiberglass skulls painted and sculpted by Mexican and international artists line the sidewalks of Paseo de la Reforma.
Festival de Día de Muertos del Bosque de Chapultepec (October 30 – November 1): A nighttime event in Chapultepec’s second section featuring altars and ofrendas, a drone show, food stalls, and water lanterns.
La Llorona en Xochimilco (October 18 – November 24, 6 pm, some performances at 9 and 11 pm): This live performance features La Llorona, a soul trapped between the living and the dead, 50 other actors, a giant pyramid, and sculptures lining the canals. You board a trajinera (flat-bottomed boat) at Embarcadero Cuemanco, Xochimilco, and travel through the canals to reach the open-water stage.
Festival de Flores de Cempasúchil (October 18 – November 1): More than 140 flower growers and producers sell potted marigolds, honey, crafts, and more along Paseo de la Reforma.
Festival Cacao Para Todos (October 29 – November 1, 10 am – 7 pm): This celebration of chocolate features small-batch chocolate bars, hot drinks, live music, and artisanal crafts. It’s held inside Diego Rivera’s Anahuacalli Museum in Coyoacán.
Memorias del Mictlán (October 30, noon, and November 1, 8 pm): If you’re heading to Coyoacán, check out the artisanal craft and food items here, where you can talk to the creators about their work.
✔️Practical tips
Pay attention to parade days and routes: If you don’t plan on attending the big parades, be careful you don’t get stuck in crowds and traffic (it’s happened to us).
Pick smart Uber destinations: Expect total gridlock extending out from parade routes. Your best bet is to walk to the parades, but if it’s too far, pick a destination a few blocks away. Do the reverse after the parade—walk several blocks toward your destination before calling for a pickup.
Watch for Metro and Metrobús changes: Metrobús Line 7 suspends service or detours during major parades. If you take the Metro, expect crowds that get bigger as you get closer to the parade stops. We recommend getting off a few stops before your destination and walking.
Claim your parade spot early: It’s a good idea to get to the Gran Desfile and Mega Procesión ahead of time. Vendors often sell small, foldable stools you can sit on while you wait and stand on to get a good view during the parade.
Carry change and small bills: Expect to pay cash for face painters, food stalls, and street vendors. Keep 20, 50, and 100 peso bills on hand. Sellers usually can’t break a 500-peso note.
Be smart about your money and possessions: Day of the Dead draws crowds, and crowds attract pickpockets. Keep your cash, credit cards, and phone out of reach so you’re not an easy target.
Dress in layers, especially if you go to Xochimilco: Mexico City evening temperatures can drop into the 50s, and the 40s at the canals.
Does your health insurance include coverage outside the US? Ours does not, so we buy health insurance through IMG for when we’re in Mexico.
I choose a high deductible, which brings down the premium cost, and a high total coverage amount, because you never know what could happen.
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